A great mass of black rock soaring to over
22,000 feet, Mt. Kailash has the unique distinction
of being the world's most venerated holy place
at the same time that it is the least visited.
The supremely sacred site of four religions
and billions of people, Kailash is seen by no
more than a few thousand pilgrims each year.
This curious fact is explained by the mountain's
remote location in far western Tibet. No planes,
trains or buses journey anywhere near the region
and even with rugged over-land vehicles the
journey still requires weeks of difficult, often
dangerous travel. The weather, always cold,
can be unexpectedly treacherous and pilgrims
must carry all the supplies they will need for
the entire journey.
How long have people been coming to this sacred
mountain? The answers are lost in antiquity,
before the dawn of Hinduism, Jainism or Buddhism.
The cosmologies and origin myths of each of
these religions speak of Kailash as the mythical
Mt. Meru, the Axis Mundi, the center and birth
place of the entire world. The mountain was
already legendary before the great Hindu epics,
the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, were written.
Indeed, Kailash is so deeply embedded in the
myths of ancient Asia that it was perhaps a
sacred place of another era, another civilization,
now long gone and forgotten.
Hindus believe Mt.Kailash to be the abode of
Lord Shiva. Like many of the Hindu gods, Shiva
is a character of apparent contradictions. He
at once the Lord of Yoga and therefore the ultimate
renunciate ascetic, yet he is also the divine
master of Tantra, the esoteric science that
regards sexual union as the most perfect path
to spiritual enlightenment. According to legend,
immortal Shiva lives atop Kailash where he spends
his time practicing yogic austerities, making
joyous love with his divine consort, Parvati,
and smoking ganja, the sacred herb known in
the west as marijuana, Hindus do not interpret
Shiva's behaviors as contradictory however,
but rather see in him a deity who has wisely
integrated the extremes of human nature and
thus transcended attachment to any particular,
and limited, way of being. For a Hindu, to make
the arduous pilgrimage to Kailash and have the
darshan (divine view) of Shiva's abode is to
attain release from the clutches of ignorance
and delusion.
Kailash is sacred to other religions as well.
The Jains call the mountain Astapada and believe
it to be the place where Rishaba, the first
of the twenty-four Tirthankaras attained liberation.
Followers of Bon, Tibet's pre-Buddhist, shamanistic
religion, call the mountain Tise and believe
it to be the seat of the Sky Goddess Sipaimen.
Additionally, Bon myths regard Tise as the sight
of a legendary 12th century battle of sorcery
between the Buddhist sage Milarepa and the Bon
shaman Naro Bon-chung. Milarepa's defeat of
the shaman displaced Bon as the primary religion
of Tibet, firmly establishing Buddhism in its
place. While the Buddha is believed to have
magically visited Kailash in the 5th century
BC, the religion of Buddhism only entered Tibet,
via Nepal and India, in the 7th century AD.
Tibetan Buddhists call the mountain Kang Rimpoche,
the 'Precious One of Glacial Snow', and regard
it as the dwelling place of Demchog (also known
as Chakrasamvara) and his consort, Dorje Phagmo.
Three hills rising near Kang Rimpoche are believed
to be the homes of the the Bodhisatvas Manjushri,
Vajrapani, and Avalokiteshvara.
Pilgrims to Kailash, after the difficult journey
getting there, are then confronted with the
equally arduous task of circumambulating the
sacred peak. This walking around the mountain
(clockwise for the Buddhists, counter-clockwise
for Bon adherents) is known as a Kora, or Parikrama,
and normally takes three days. In hopes of gaining
extra merit or psychic powers however, some
pilgrims will vary the tempo of their movement.
A hardy few, practicing a secret breathing technique
known as Lung-gom, will power themselves around
the mountain in only one day. Others will take
two to three weeks for the Kora by making full
body prostrations the entire way. It is believed
that a pilgrim who completes 108 journeys around
the mountain is assured enlightenment. Most
pilgrims to Kailash will also take a short plunge
in the nearby, highly sacred (and very cold)
Lake Manosaravar. The word 'manas' means mind
or consciousness; the name Manosaravar means
Lake of Consciousness and Enlightenment. Adjacent
to Manosaravar is Rakas Tal or Rakshas, the
Lake of Demons. Pilgrimage to this great sacred
mountain and these two magical lakes is a life
changing experience and an opportunity to view
some of the most magical scenery on the entire
planet.